Greetings from central Europe! I have just left the beautiful city of Krakow and would love to share my some of my favorite things with you. As far as cities go, Krakow is pretty small, but don’t mistake small for boring! This is a city you can really walk around and explore in a day, but there is so much more to do than just walk around and get acquainted with your new surroundings.
Medieval History
This part of Europe is castle country, and Krakow is no exception! The city center features a grand, but not exactly conventional castle, Wawel Castle. This castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the pride of Krakow. There are different parts of the castle open at different times. When I went, I was able to tour the Castle II, which just means rooms on the second floor. Tickets to Castle I (open in autumn) and Castle II (open in spring) are free, as are a few other parts of the castle, but tickets are limited in numbers. The Castle II tour (self guided) includes state rooms, throne rooms, and ball rooms. An interesting feature of this tour is actually on the walls. Many rooms have an embossed leather wall covering which I found very intriguing, Castle II also has an exhibition of Ottoman Turkish tents and armor. Here you can learn the historical connection between Poland and Turkey and admire medieval relics. As I had mentioned earlier, different exhibitions are open during different seasons. I visited the castle in mid April, and the flowers were just staring to bloom in the castle complex, but I just missed the window to see the royal gardens and the dragon’s den, which I understand is only open in the warmer months, so I would suggest going slightly later. Even without seeing these things though, touring the castle complex and second floor was still really great.
Browse the Markets
Krakow, like many other big cities in the region, has an active market scene. There are a few different markets around the city, but the main one is quite different than what you see in Austria or Germany. This market doesn’t have fresh produce, but they do have trinkets and sometimes food. I was lucky to be in Krakow right as the Easter market was starting in the town square, which means tons of food stalls selling traditional delicacies. The main market is in the center of the city and is right inside the Cloth Hall, which is the main building in the square, you really can’t miss it. Here you can find all kinds of great souvenirs, like amber stone jewelry, ceramics, leather goods, etc. Outside Old Town, right by the Krakow Grzegorzki tram stop is Hala Targowa; a more traditional market with produce, baked goods, flowers and the like. If you’re an early riser, this is a great spot, especially because much doesn’t seem to be open in Krakow in the early morning. The market opens at 6:30 on weekdays and 7 o’clock on Saturdays. If you get there right around opening, some of the stalls may still be closed, but the bakeries and many produce sellers are open and ready. A little later in the day there are vendors selling prepared food and non food items, like leather goods. This market really has it all! While I didn’t buy much, I still enjoyed going up and down the aisles to see what was for sale. I think markets like this let you see a more authentic side of the city you’re visiting, and getting a glimpse of local life is something I strongly value as a traveler.
For Early Risers
If you naturally wake up early, or you’re trying to fight a bad case of jet lag, you have a wonderful opportunity to see Krakow at sunrise, when it’s quiet and the streets are empty. I was able to walk all of Old Town early in the morning, even before the market opened, and let me tell you, a city is much different when it’s still asleep. You can wander slowly, taking in everything around you without having to dodge a slew of tourists. It feels like having the city all to yourself because the only other people you see are a few fellow early risers, who I can feel confident assuming are locals. You watch as shop owners and restauranteurs prepare to open for the day, or share the sidewalk with people walking their dogs before heading to work. I know for some, the thought of getting up before the sun is appalling (me included), but when jet lag has a strong hold and won’t let you sleep another minute, why not get up and start exploring?
Franciszkanska 3
Maps calls this a palace, but it seems more like a cathedral, even though it doesn’t seem like it from the exterior. And wow, is this one of the most beautiful cathedral interiors I’ve ever seen! As an architect I personally love a good gothic cathedral, and this one is different than most I’ve seen. The bright and vivid colors give so much life to this space. While I was not (for whatever reason) able to go very far into the cathedral, I was able to stand toward the back and take in all the grandeur. If you have any interest in cathedrals or gothic architecture, I recommend adding this quick stop to your itinerary.
Stepping Back into WWII
One of the things I most wanted to do while in Krakow was visit Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. On my second day in Krakow, I was transported almost 2 hours outside the city to what may be the most shocking site for a human to behold. While this experience is quite somber, it was so informative and shows such an important part of history. Auschwitz is split up between two camps – Auschwitz 1, and Auschwitz-2-Birkenau. At Auschwitz 1, you weave in and out of the original brick buildings, some of which were constructed as barracks when the site was still a Polish army base between WWI and WWII. These buildings hold photos of some of the camp’s victims, belongings that were stolen from them, and representations of what life at the camp was like. Seeing these things in person really puts the shear numbers of victims into perspective. One long case holds all of the adult shoes that were taken from prisoners upon arrival at the camps, and another had suitcases that held the belongings they hoped to use to maintain the life they assumed was still ahead of them. This first part of the camp was more preserved than I would have expected, and didn’t at all look like what I had seen in my school history books.
“Work Will Set You Free”Shoes of Victims
After a couple hours of a tour guide leading you through these buildings, you head to Birkenau. This camp is what everyone pictures when thinking about concentration camps. This camp was spread out over 300 acres of land and houses the type of barracks that we have all seen in photos. As you enter the camp, you follow the train tracks through the famous brick gate, and are lead to the area where the train cars were unloaded and prisoners were either sorted into ‘strong enough to work’ or ‘unsuitable’ which lead them straight to death. Unlike the first camp, this one isn’t as preserved, partially because the Nazi army wanted to cover up evidence of their crimes. This leg of the tour is shorter than the first and is almost completely outside, the exception being when you tour one of the barracks.
As a WWII history buff, I can say that seeing all of this was still so unimaginable to me. We have all heard the number statistics and seen pictures and know many of the facts, but being there is just so hard to wrap your mind around. Seeing historical sites like this are so important though. After liberation, many of the prisoners went back to Auschwitz to make sure the camp would be preserved, so everyone for generations to come could see the physical evidence of the horrors that innocent people were subject to. The hope of the remaining survivors and of the surviving families is that if people go to see these places, then hopefully nothing like this will ever happen again.
Entry to BirkenauFormer Barracks
Explore Polish Cuisine
One of the best parts about traveling to other countries is trying different foods. Polish cuisine is one of my absolute favorites! I am totally a pierogi kind of girl, so I planned on eating many of those while in Poland, but I also got acquainted with foods I’ve never had. I went to two eating establishments serving traditional Polish cuisine, and both were great! One was near the Hala Targowa market – Przystanek Pierogarnia – a tiny restaurant more equipped for take out, but had a great selection and good prices. I tried the bacon pierogis and the golabki (cabbage rolls) and let me say, it doesn’t sound like a lot of food, but it was very filling! The second pierogi restaurant is closer to Wawel Castle – Mirror Bistro. Their menu had many Polish dishes, but their main focus is pierogis. At this restaurant, I had the traditional Ukrainian style pierogis and cherry filled dessert pierogis. These were absolutely fantastic! I had never heard of a dessert pierogi before landing in Poland, but after trying them, I’m in love! Another dessert I was very excited to try was a paczki (filled donuts). Where I’m from, there’s a large community of Catholics that eat these on fat Tuesday (last day before Lent), so I am well acquainted with paczkis, but having one in Poland is an experience I couldn’t pass up! There are a few different flavors of fillings, mostly fruit jams or custards. These donuts are light and fluffy on the outside, and absolutely chock full of tasty filling on the inside. My mouth is watering just thinking about them! Another dessert that I didn’t get to try that I wish I would have is the chimney cake. It’s essentially a cylinder of dough that’s baked on a ring and rolled in a topping like cinnamon sugar. Although these are technically a Hungarian specialty (according to a Hungarian I met), they can be found in many of the surrounding countries like Poland and the Czech Republic. Sometimes you can even find them used as ice cream cones, but I was told that this was more of a modification for tourists. There are usually stands all over serving these, so they shouldn’t be hard to find!
Krakow may not be a big city like London or Paris, but it is steeped in heritage and tradition. Part of travel is jumping into a culture and really learning about how other parts of the world live, and it’s so cool to see a country like Poland hold strongly to its roots. I had a wonderful time in Poland and I hope you consider adding Krakow to your European travel bucket list!
[…] My journey started and ended in the south of Poland, in the history rich city of Krakow. This city can be pretty well explored in only a couple days. Its small, but full of culture, good food, and lovely little markets. When in Krakow, I suggest taking a day trip to Auschwitz Concentration Camp. It’s such an important part of history, and while it’s a somber experience, it really helps put everything into perspective, and helps us to not forget the atrocities that were committed in the past. For a full list of things to do in Krakow, check out Kraków, Poland -Things to do on a Weekend Trip […]
Greetings from central Europe! I have just left the beautiful city of Krakow and would love to share my some of my favorite things with you. As far as cities go, Krakow is pretty small, but don’t mistake small for boring! This is a city you can really walk around and explore in a day, but there is so much more to do than just walk around and get acquainted with your new surroundings.
Medieval History
This part of Europe is castle country, and Krakow is no exception! The city center features a grand, but not exactly conventional castle, Wawel Castle. This castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the pride of Krakow. There are different parts of the castle open at different times. When I went, I was able to tour the Castle II, which just means rooms on the second floor. Tickets to Castle I (open in autumn) and Castle II (open in spring) are free, as are a few other parts of the castle, but tickets are limited in numbers. The Castle II tour (self guided) includes state rooms, throne rooms, and ball rooms. An interesting feature of this tour is actually on the walls. Many rooms have an embossed leather wall covering which I found very intriguing, Castle II also has an exhibition of Ottoman Turkish tents and armor. Here you can learn the historical connection between Poland and Turkey and admire medieval relics. As I had mentioned earlier, different exhibitions are open during different seasons. I visited the castle in mid April, and the flowers were just staring to bloom in the castle complex, but I just missed the window to see the royal gardens and the dragon’s den, which I understand is only open in the warmer months, so I would suggest going slightly later. Even without seeing these things though, touring the castle complex and second floor was still really great.
Browse the Markets
Krakow, like many other big cities in the region, has an active market scene. There are a few different markets around the city, but the main one is quite different than what you see in Austria or Germany. This market doesn’t have fresh produce, but they do have trinkets and sometimes food. I was lucky to be in Krakow right as the Easter market was starting in the town square, which means tons of food stalls selling traditional delicacies. The main market is in the center of the city and is right inside the Cloth Hall, which is the main building in the square, you really can’t miss it. Here you can find all kinds of great souvenirs, like amber stone jewelry, ceramics, leather goods, etc. Outside Old Town, right by the Krakow Grzegorzki tram stop is Hala Targowa; a more traditional market with produce, baked goods, flowers and the like. If you’re an early riser, this is a great spot, especially because much doesn’t seem to be open in Krakow in the early morning. The market opens at 6:30 on weekdays and 7 o’clock on Saturdays. If you get there right around opening, some of the stalls may still be closed, but the bakeries and many produce sellers are open and ready. A little later in the day there are vendors selling prepared food and non food items, like leather goods. This market really has it all! While I didn’t buy much, I still enjoyed going up and down the aisles to see what was for sale. I think markets like this let you see a more authentic side of the city you’re visiting, and getting a glimpse of local life is something I strongly value as a traveler.
For Early Risers
If you naturally wake up early, or you’re trying to fight a bad case of jet lag, you have a wonderful opportunity to see Krakow at sunrise, when it’s quiet and the streets are empty. I was able to walk all of Old Town early in the morning, even before the market opened, and let me tell you, a city is much different when it’s still asleep. You can wander slowly, taking in everything around you without having to dodge a slew of tourists. It feels like having the city all to yourself because the only other people you see are a few fellow early risers, who I can feel confident assuming are locals. You watch as shop owners and restauranteurs prepare to open for the day, or share the sidewalk with people walking their dogs before heading to work. I know for some, the thought of getting up before the sun is appalling (me included), but when jet lag has a strong hold and won’t let you sleep another minute, why not get up and start exploring?
Franciszkanska 3
Maps calls this a palace, but it seems more like a cathedral, even though it doesn’t seem like it from the exterior. And wow, is this one of the most beautiful cathedral interiors I’ve ever seen! As an architect I personally love a good gothic cathedral, and this one is different than most I’ve seen. The bright and vivid colors give so much life to this space. While I was not (for whatever reason) able to go very far into the cathedral, I was able to stand toward the back and take in all the grandeur. If you have any interest in cathedrals or gothic architecture, I recommend adding this quick stop to your itinerary.
Stepping Back into WWII
One of the things I most wanted to do while in Krakow was visit Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. On my second day in Krakow, I was transported almost 2 hours outside the city to what may be the most shocking site for a human to behold. While this experience is quite somber, it was so informative and shows such an important part of history. Auschwitz is split up between two camps – Auschwitz 1, and Auschwitz-2-Birkenau. At Auschwitz 1, you weave in and out of the original brick buildings, some of which were constructed as barracks when the site was still a Polish army base between WWI and WWII. These buildings hold photos of some of the camp’s victims, belongings that were stolen from them, and representations of what life at the camp was like. Seeing these things in person really puts the shear numbers of victims into perspective. One long case holds all of the adult shoes that were taken from prisoners upon arrival at the camps, and another had suitcases that held the belongings they hoped to use to maintain the life they assumed was still ahead of them. This first part of the camp was more preserved than I would have expected, and didn’t at all look like what I had seen in my school history books.
“Work Will Set You Free”Shoes of Victims
After a couple hours of a tour guide leading you through these buildings, you head to Birkenau. This camp is what everyone pictures when thinking about concentration camps. This camp was spread out over 300 acres of land and houses the type of barracks that we have all seen in photos. As you enter the camp, you follow the train tracks through the famous brick gate, and are lead to the area where the train cars were unloaded and prisoners were either sorted into ‘strong enough to work’ or ‘unsuitable’ which lead them straight to death. Unlike the first camp, this one isn’t as preserved, partially because the Nazi army wanted to cover up evidence of their crimes. This leg of the tour is shorter than the first and is almost completely outside, the exception being when you tour one of the barracks.
As a WWII history buff, I can say that seeing all of this was still so unimaginable to me. We have all heard the number statistics and seen pictures and know many of the facts, but being there is just so hard to wrap your mind around. Seeing historical sites like this are so important though. After liberation, many of the prisoners went back to Auschwitz to make sure the camp would be preserved, so everyone for generations to come could see the physical evidence of the horrors that innocent people were subject to. The hope of the remaining survivors and of the surviving families is that if people go to see these places, then hopefully nothing like this will ever happen again.
Entry to BirkenauFormer Barracks
Explore Polish Cuisine
One of the best parts about traveling to other countries is trying different foods. Polish cuisine is one of my absolute favorites! I am totally a pierogi kind of girl, so I planned on eating many of those while in Poland, but I also got acquainted with foods I’ve never had. I went to two eating establishments serving traditional Polish cuisine, and both were great! One was near the Hala Targowa market – Przystanek Pierogarnia – a tiny restaurant more equipped for take out, but had a great selection and good prices. I tried the bacon pierogis and the golabki (cabbage rolls) and let me say, it doesn’t sound like a lot of food, but it was very filling! The second pierogi restaurant is closer to Wawel Castle – Mirror Bistro. Their menu had many Polish dishes, but their main focus is pierogis. At this restaurant, I had the traditional Ukrainian style pierogis and cherry filled dessert pierogis. These were absolutely fantastic! I had never heard of a dessert pierogi before landing in Poland, but after trying them, I’m in love! Another dessert I was very excited to try was a paczki (filled donuts). Where I’m from, there’s a large community of Catholics that eat these on fat Tuesday (last day before Lent), so I am well acquainted with paczkis, but having one in Poland is an experience I couldn’t pass up! There are a few different flavors of fillings, mostly fruit jams or custards. These donuts are light and fluffy on the outside, and absolutely chock full of tasty filling on the inside. My mouth is watering just thinking about them! Another dessert that I didn’t get to try that I wish I would have is the chimney cake. It’s essentially a cylinder of dough that’s baked on a ring and rolled in a topping like cinnamon sugar. Although these are technically a Hungarian specialty (according to a Hungarian I met), they can be found in many of the surrounding countries like Poland and the Czech Republic. Sometimes you can even find them used as ice cream cones, but I was told that this was more of a modification for tourists. There are usually stands all over serving these, so they shouldn’t be hard to find!
Krakow may not be a big city like London or Paris, but it is steeped in heritage and tradition. Part of travel is jumping into a culture and really learning about how other parts of the world live, and it’s so cool to see a country like Poland hold strongly to its roots. I had a wonderful time in Poland and I hope you consider adding Krakow to your European travel bucket list!
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